When it comes to creating high-quality garments, the choice of fabric is just as critical as the design itself. But few people realise how closely fabric selection and pattern grading are linked. The right fabric not only affects the look and feel of a garment but also how it fits across different sizes.
How Fabric Impacts Grading
Different fabrics behave differently when cut and sewn. Stretch fabrics, lightweight chiffons, or structured wools all react uniquely during construction and wear. A pattern that works perfectly in cotton may not fit the same way in silk or jersey.
Pattern graders take fabric behaviour into account to ensure that the final garment maintains its intended proportions, silhouette, and comfort across all sizes.
Key Considerations
1. Stretch and Recovery
Fabrics with stretch require adjustments in grading to maintain proper fit. Without accounting for elasticity, a garment may become too tight or lose its shape over time.
2. Drape and Weight
Heavy fabrics like wool or denim hang differently than lightweight fabrics such as voile or satin. Grading patterns must reflect how gravity affects the garment’s fall and balance.
3. Fabric Shrinkage
Natural fibres can shrink after washing, so patterns may need preemptive adjustments to ensure final fit remains accurate.
4. Seam Allowances and Construction
Certain fabrics are prone to fraying or stretching at seams. Grading experts consider these properties when determining how patterns should be adjusted for multiple sizes.
Why This Matters for Brand
By factoring fabric characteristics into pattern grading, brands can:
- Reduce fit issues across sizes
- Minimise fabric waste
- Improve production efficiency
- Deliver garments that meet customer expectations
For designers, this means fewer costly revisions and a smoother path from prototype to production.
Partnering With Grading Exper
At Gradeline-Datagraf Ltd, our team has extensive experience working with a wide range of fabrics across womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear. We understand how each material behaves and apply this knowledge to ensure your patterns are accurate, production-ready, and true to your design intent.
Final Thoughts
Fabric choice isn’t just a creative decision — it’s a technical one that affects grading, fit, and production quality. Working with expert graders ensures that your garments look and feel as intended, regardless of the fabric or size.
Established in 1986, Datagraf Ltd T/A The Grading Bureau have come together with Gradeline, who were established in 1989, to build Gradeline-Datagraf Ltd and create an unrivalled, high-quality, cost-effective service, both within the UK and to an extensive international client base.
For over 30 years, we have specialised in pattern grading for women’s, men’s and children’s wear, and we pride ourselves on always creating an enduring end product of the highest calibre.
Our expert staff have in excess of 150 years of combined industry experience. We work on all manner of briefs for industry-leading clients, including high-street names and designers.
We have a proven track record of high-level work, which has won us numerous loyal customers all across the UK, Europe and UAE.
📞 Contact us at 020 8211 3301 or 📧 production@gradeline-datagraf.co.uk